The Delta is a special place. I say it so much that it must sound like I am protesting too much. But I don't worry: it establishes its character immediately. A visitor need only be sentient.

Case in point: Jon Bonné, the wine editor of the San Francisco Chronicle, had contacted me about doing an article on the Project, focusing on our somewhat unconventional fruit sources. He was especially eager to get out to Lost Slough with me. We scheduled a trip, accompanied by Tegan Passilaqua, who knew Lodi very well and had introduced me to several excellent and surprising vineyards. My friend Lily met us part way; she too was eager to extend her knowledge beyond Napa.

We departed around 6 am so that we could catch good early morning light for any photographs. Just as we were about to cross one of the arms of the Sacramento Delta, near Walnut Grove, I think, we were held up by a raising drawbridge. I got out of the car to assess how long we might be held up. When I got out, I saw a pirate ship making its way north on the Sacramento, jolly roger and all. Jon saw it too. 7 am and the Delta was already dealing its magic.