It is a strange and interesting growing season. The most important thing to say is what everyone is talking about– over coffee, on the side of the road, at cocktail parties. It is August 29 as I write this, and the seeds are already dry.

In 2003–for instance–they did not dry until mid-october. Last year, they never really got dry at all.

When the grapes are really ready to make good wine, not just to give up some sugar for alcohol, some color, a little infantile fragrance– then things change in their deepest biology. The grape has a natural end– a physiological trajectory, with a point of arrival, even if not necessarily a destination. The wines of the Project are best made from grapes that have arrived at this natural end. And the grape gives you a sign somewhat separate from any question of how much sugar, what does it taste like … They give you seeds that are brown and crunchy, like perfectly popped corn with a llittle husk of golden seed coat still attached.

This is what we call ”physiological ripeness.” The grapes already have it. Everything from now on is an elaboration of something already acheived. It is very promising; and it is evident in every vineyard.

Harvest dates have been delayed by long stretches of beautiful cool weather– morning fog, afternoon sun, but late, and temperate. We have not had very hot weather for months. The Naucratis Verdelho will be harvested nearly two weeks later than last year–but beautifully ripe, and with less sugar (and so less alcohol!). Hudson syrah is still green on the vine… and no heat spikes are forecast. We could win something very rare in California: complete ripeness without roasting, without dehydration, at potential alcohols like those of the old days.